Sunday, November 23, 2008

Fair weather

Since we've moved here I've probably been surfing 80% of the days. Obviously, heading back to work has certainly driven that percentage down, but I'd say that's still pretty good for 2 months of being here. Well I was back in the water both days this weekend, even though I went to Ikea yesterday, I managed to paddle out for a sunset session and then today with Greg around noon. Today we hit Grandview down in Leucadia. It's a right that breaks over a soft reef, which is really nothing more than some rocks covered in sea grass. It was fairly mellow with some decent waves coming through but nothing bigger than waist high. After a couple of hours of mediocre waves and the clouds burning off, I turned back towards shore and to my surprise, Chris was actually paddling out. This isn't amazing because she was actually surfing with us but because she's become something of a fair weather surfer. Only when it's sunny and warm will you see her slide ever so gracefully into her wetsuit(seriously, it's hilarious to watch, someday I'll get a video on here of it) and join us in the water. We quickly found out that she'd actually been out for about an hour, paddling around to the different groups of people looking for us. She was about to give up, when we were spotted. We spent the next little while catching waves, watching her get crushed by one big one, making the rash on my arms worse, and seeing a baby seal about 20 feet away from us. It was another great weekend and I'm excited to eat my weight in Turkey on Thursday!

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